João Lucas Batista
Journalist
The Origin of the Caipira Snack
Why does this famous regional delicacy not have a precise place of origin?
Full Text
Article for Foca em Foco magazine.
The bolinho caipira is the signature dish of the Vale do Paraíba region. During traditional Festa Junina celebrations, this treat can be easily found at local community events and fairs. While the fillings vary from city to city, the basic recipe—corn flour, cassava starch, salt, and water—never fails to delight the palate of its admirers.
Being so popular, there are many stories and rumors about where the bolinho caipira originated. Some say Jacareí, others São José dos Campos. But how did the recipe start, and which city gave birth to the region’s most famous delicacy?
According to historian Alberto Capucci Filho, from Jacareí, the original bolinho caipira was made with fish and not fried. “No one can say this with certainty, as there is still no documentation. In my view, it is a heritage from the indigenous Tupi peoples who inhabited the region and still cultivate white corn. Since the indigenous didn’t fry food or raise pigs, I suppose the original recipe used fish. With Portuguese colonization, it shifted to pork and later sausage,” explains Capucci, who in 2009 led the process of registering the bolinho caipira as an Intangible Heritage of Jacareí.
History
The first records of the bolinho being sold date back to the 1920s. In early 1924, in Jacareí, Nicota Gehrke, who ran a stand at the Municipal Market, popularized the snack throughout the city. Local bars also contributed, serving the treat to visitors from the countryside.
In São José dos Campos, around the same period, bolinhos were sold at stands behind the main church. They were filled with lambari fish, especially for consumption during Holy Week. Each city’s recipe varies by filling and flour type. In Jacareí, the snack uses white flour with pork or sausage filling. In São José, yellow flour is used with beef filling. Other towns in the Vale have their own versions as well.
The lack of solid evidence makes it difficult to pinpoint the exact origin of the bolinho caipira.
Overall, its importance lies in recognizing that the bolinho belongs to the Vale do Paraíba—a regional tradition. As folklorist Ângela Savastano explains: “When studying the origin of a cultural manifestation, one identifies not just a city, but a region. This is characteristic of Brazilian popular culture, where, depending on the time, people enjoy typical foods.” "The bolinho is part of the identity of the Vale do Paraíba. It symbolizes togetherness." – Patrícia Cruz, museologist.
Cultural Significance
Beyond taste and culture, the bolinho is linked to fairs, festivals, and religious ceremonies. It represents friendship and the spirit of the countryside. “The bolinho caipira embodies the union of people. It is connected to memories and local traditions,” says Patrícia Cruz, museologist from Jacareí.
Even without a precise place of origin, the bolinho caipira remains the Vale do Paraíba’s greatest culinary contribution. Its unique and traditional flavor reflects the hardworking people who move from the countryside to the city, preserve the memory of the past, and proudly honor their humble Vale do Paraíba roots.
